Bend to Banff: Overland to the Tour Divide

Mateo Paéz was born and raised in a sleepy California beach town. Always drawn to exploring his surroundings by his own means and never slowing down for anything, he spent his early years pushing himself in the water and on land. Skateboarding, surfing, mountain biking, skiing, team sports, you name it. In his own words, 'I never stopped.'

Moving to Portland, he threw himself into the thriving local race scene and raced criteriums, circuit races, road, cyclocross and cross country mountain biking. Everything was within reach, at most a day's drive, but most importantly, these races had the community to support this wild spectacle of amateur sport he had fallen in love with.

In 2022, things started to change. Mateo found his niche and his passion, which he defines as 'competitive exploration', but more commonly described as ultra endurance racing or bikepacking. Since that first race in 2022 his life has changed and Mateo found his passion which he now dedicates himself to. Challenges with no reward. Competing, but more importantly for him, inspiring people to take chances and apply themselves to whatever they want to do, mentally, physically and spiritually to the natural world around us.

This year, Mateo is racing one of the original bikepacking races, the Tour Divide. The route broadly follows the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, the most recognised off-road cycling route in the United States. The race has developed into one of the most prestigious events in the ultra-distance calendar, whilst retaining a very low profile. Unlike a lot of races that have emerged over the past decade, there are no entry fees, no registration, no sponsorship and no prizes for winning. The route starts in Banff, Alberta, Canada and finishes at the US/Mexico border in Antelope Wells, New Mexico.

Mateo chose to ride from his home in Bend, Oregon, and tour all the way to the startline. Being flexible with whatever the trail threw at him on his journey has provided an unforgettable experience before the race has even started, helping him prepare to ride 4,400km on the divide which starts today, the 14th of June.

Words by Mateo Paéz. Photography by Stephen Shelesky who joined Mateo for the ride.

This was my no fly approach to the start of the 2024 Tour Divide. Approximately 750km, from Bend in Oregon to the start of the race in British Columbia, Canada.

Woke up in a rain soaked tent and the sun was breaking through the overnight condensation, not just on the tent but all around us, ferns blazing with steam. Rhododendron blooming.

Touring as an approach for a race like this had already taught me valuable lessons, things I already knew but was slowly reminded of what it takes to be flexible and comfortable with whatever gets thrown at you.

Acclimatizing to the flow of it all.

Presence and flexibility.

Rain that wasn’t in the forecast, road closures forcing us to re-route, Amtrak delays and overnight trains. We should be in Whitefish by Noon.

Everything is great.

Forecast is optimistic.

Looking forward to being back on the bike and breathing the fresh mountain air again. Amtrak isn’t quite as good as single track…

It’s almost 2 pm now and I’m still sitting on this train.

Now, we are way behind schedule. We’re close enough to the border so I’m not that worried.

This afternoon will be full of excitement I’m sure.

6pm Columbia Falls, MT. Smith's Grocery. A Local woman wishes me luck at the Tour Divide next week. She rode the Montana section last year and told me how beautiful it is.

Leaving Whitefish, a good 9 hours behind “schedule”, we rolled into Big Creek Campground, 30 miles into the wild and beautiful Flathead Monument. Lucky for us, we scored the last available campsite, it was meant to be.

5am: wake up and the most pristine mountain riding I’ve ever done. We meandered up along the West end of the Glacier National Park and over the Kootenay into Eureka, MT. It’s hot in the valley here.

Saturday afternoon, officially in Canada. Border patrol let us in!

Headwind comforted by the views, the Rockies looming. Clouds swirling all around us. Every corner presents a new peak, daydreaming.

130 miles to Fernie and now it’s time for Indian Food.

There is a stark contrast of the size and legit wilderness that swallows these Canadians roadways.

It simply hits different.

Touring to the start has been such a clarifying experience of what matters and what doesn’t.

Fear of Nature and environment.

For Simply existing.

Yet, we still relentlessly attack it, stripping it for all of its power. The remnants of mining is present in every valley, some active, others decommissioned.

Grizzly territory in the far north.

If you see a shark exposing yourself to nature whilst surfing, you paddle the fuck in.

If you see a grizzly bear on the Tour Divide, you continue further into their environment.

Perspective is everything. Confidence is key.

My approach to this endeavor has slowly changed over time. It’s less about performance every day that goes by.

Acclimation, confidence and consistency should lead to good sensations throughout this race next week.

If I’m having fun and taking care of myself, I will make my way south somewhat fast, but then again this is the Tour Divide and anything can happen.

You can follow Mateo and the other riders here.